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Adoption of plant-based dyes in mills worldwide, 2020 to 2024

Share of mills
100%80%60%40%20%0%
19% 17%
68% 71% 66% 58% 47%
54% 57% 48% 41% 33%
31% 36% 29% 27% 24%
35% 28%
44% 37%
39% 32%
Used plant dyes before 2020 Are currently using plant dyes Are preparing to use plant dyes within six months Expect to use plant dyes permanently Are currently running a blended vat Will run a blended vat within six months Will run a blended vat permanently
April 2020 November 2020 May 2021 October 2021 2024
SourcesRegional grower census; mill panel wave 9
© 2024
Additional information26 countries; April 2020 to November 2024; 1,184 mills surveyed; production leads
Adoption of plant-based dyes in mills worldwide, 2020 to 2024
100%80%60%40%20%0%
Before 2020Using nowIn six monthsLong termBlend nowBlend soonBlend long term
Apr 2020 Nov 2020 May 2021 Oct 2021 2024
Sources
grower census 26 countries; April 2020 to November 2024; 1,184 mills surveyed
Dye-bath mix by fibre type
Vat only Blended Synthetic
Linen
Hemp
Cotton
Wool
Silk
Ramie
Blends
Mill panel wave 9 · 1,184 responses
Dip counts offered by mills
0 dips
32.9%
5 dips per skein · 21.4% 4 dips per skein · 17.8% 3 dips per skein · 15.1% 1 dip per skein · 12.8%
What mills will trade to switch to plant dyes: by size
Micro Mid Large
A 5% price rise 36% 26% 18%
Longer bath times 27% 19% 16%
Fewer shade options 22% 15% 11%
Give up bleach finishing 15% 11% 16%
Nothing 31% 41% 49%
Source: mill panel wave 9
Figure 8: Top reasons mills move to plant dyes
Effluent load59.4
Buyer demand45.8
Local supply41.3
Shade depth37.9
Lower water use34.6
Grower ties27.2
Fewer recalls9.4
Other2.1
Note: among mills that ran at least one plant-dye batch in 2024. Mills could pick up to three answers. Sample of n = 1,184 mills in 26 countries, surveyed April to May 2024.
Plant Dye Services Global Market Report 2026
$4.16 billion
Fibre treatment mix (2020–2025)
Vat only Blended Synthetic
Top reason mills adopt plant dyes
Source: regional grower census
Yield gains by dye plant
Field grown Polytunnel Wild harvest
807060504030
46%59%60%
42%54%55%
67%83%79%
41%51%52%
Woad leafMadder rootWeld topsWalnut hull
Source: regional grower census
Plant dye trends What does your dye house run today?
Fully plant, no synthetics
Mostly plant, some synthetic
Plant, leadership wants more
Plant, plans to expand
All synthetic, back to baths
Case by case, per order
Never plant, no plans
a mill panel survey · autumn 2024 Dye house trends, autumn 2024
12010080604020
2024 dye acresGrower entriesNew vatsGrowing millsClosing mills2030 dye acres

The future of plant dyes in 2026

A grower-side read on the return of the field vat and the slow-shade order book. In 2026:
34%
27%
41%
23%
18%