
Makes 18 cookies · 42 min
A cookie that behaves like the corner piece of a brownie tray — dense in the middle, papery on top, and ready in a fraction of the baking time. Chopped bittersweet chocolate, unsweetened cocoa and a spoonful of espresso powder do the heavy lifting on flavor, so there is no leavening here at all. The only step worth slowing down for is whipping the eggs and sugar: that is what gives the dough its lift and the baked cookie its glassy, crackled lid. Rapping the sheet pan against the counter about eight minutes in collapses the centers on purpose, which is where the fudgy texture comes from. Whether you race for the crisp edges or wait patiently for the gooey middle, these land somewhere between both.

Makes 18 cookies · 42 min